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Dawn Delights: A Foreign Traveler’s Journey Through Hanoi’s Vibrant Market

Early morning adventures: Foreign tourist savoring Hanoi's bustling market

Geoff, a Canadian travel enthusiast, has explored a variety of countries, including Vietnam. His journey took him to renowned spots like Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, Hoi An, Hue, Ninh Binh, and Hanoi, where he embraced the local culture and dishes.

During his stay in Hanoi, Geoff had a remarkable adventure visiting a wholesale market at dawn, alongside Ms. Duyen, a chef in the tourism field. They headed to Long Bien Market, situated beneath the Long Bien Bridge in Ba Dinh District. This market is one of the largest in the area and lies within close proximity to Dong Xuan Market in the Old Quarter.

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Long Bien Market is open from late night until early morning, with the busiest hours being between 2-4 AM, making it a perfect spot for those wanting to experience its lively atmosphere.

Known for its late hours, Long Bien Market has earned the nickname “the market that never sleeps,” drawing both locals and tourists from around the globe.

The market has also received accolades, being named one of Southeast Asia’s five most captivating markets by Go Backpacking and listed as one of the seven most intriguing outdoor markets by Conde Nast Traveler.

Geoff woke up early to arrive at Long Bien Market right before 4 AM, where he was welcomed by a vibrant and bustling environment. He was thrilled when vendors offered him free samples of various fruits such as sugarcane, plums, and oranges.

Chef Duyen guided him to try cha muc (fried squid cakes) and cha ca (fried fish cakes) at a vendor’s stall. Geoff was struck by the vibrant and aromatic qualities of the cha, noting the freshness of the squid.

“The squid cakes were deliciously hot. Initially, I didn’t expect much from the fish cakes, but they pleasantly surprised me,” Geoff remarked.

Afterward, they visited a corner eatery to taste trứng rán lá ngải (fried eggs with mugwort). Chef Duyen explained that mugwort is commonly used in Vietnamese cooking and is known for its health benefits, like soothing headaches and joint pain.

This dish is both popular and inexpensive among locals in Hanoi. Geoff discovered that the mugwort’s bitter flavor is complemented by a fragrant note similar to orange peel.

“The combination of mugwort’s bitterness, the fried eggs, and the zesty dipping sauce made this a flavor-packed experience,” he said.

Along with the fried eggs, Geoff enjoyed sticky rice with braised pork. He was impressed by the hearty serving that included braised pork, fatty pork pie, shredded pork floss, and pickled vegetables.

He praised the soft, flavorful sticky rice, saying, “It’s incredible; the braised pork melts in your mouth, and the pickled veggies are delightful.” The vendor’s generosity shone through when he offered Geoff an additional piece of beef pie, making the experience even more memorable.

Looking back on his morning, Geoff shared that although waking up early was tough, the trip to the wholesale market proved to be rewarding.

“It was absolutely worth it, just for the tasty food and the thoughtful extras I received,” he concluded.

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Thao Trinh


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