Brian Jeffrey
Bun Ngam: A Unique Culinary Delight in Hai Phong
Although not as widely known as other local favorites like banh da cua (crab noodle soup) and bun ca cay (spicy fish noodle soup), bun ngam holds a special place in the culinary landscape of Hai Phong.
For many visitors unfamiliar with “bun ngam,” or soaked vermicelli, tasting this dish leaves a lasting impression.
This dish features vermicelli made from soaked and grilled rice, a technique that ensures the noodles remain crispy and minimizes any sourness. The specific type of vermicelli used is large and retains its texture even after extended soaking.
When preparing bun ngam, chefs briefly scald the vermicelli again before adding various toppings and ladling soup over it.
The process of soaking rice to prepare the vermicelli is a skilled technique, with each chef and region having their unique method—some may soak the noodles in saltwater or warm water to achieve their desired flavor.
Nguyen Quynh Duong, who runs a bun ngam restaurant on Hoang Minh Thao street in Le Chan district, mentions that this dish is sometimes referred to as ‘bun tom’ (vermicelli with shrimp), reflecting its primary ingredient.
To create the shrimp broth, Duong uses small spear shrimp, which are roasted in a pan, then ground and filtered to extract their essence. Additionally, she simmers animal bones overnight to enhance the broth’s flavor.
“I use an electric pressure cooker to simmer the bones for an entire night, making them tender by morning. The shrimp is roasted to eliminate moisture, filtered, and then combined with the bone broth, seasoned with special spices,” Duong explained.
She emphasized that shrimp should only be ground after roasting to capture its sweet and aromatic essence while removing any fishy odor.
“Crafting the broth is an intricate and time-consuming task. I also add radish, jicama, and onion to enrich the broth with a fragrant and flavorful profile,” she added.
While there are various methods and seasonings for preparing bun ngam, shrimp remains a crucial and irreplaceable component.
This dish is versatile and can be enjoyed at any time, making it suitable for both children and adults alike.
