Brian Jeffrey
Bun thang luon is a standout dish from Hung Yen, particularly beloved in the Pho Hien region, which includes the Lam Son and Hong Chau wards of Hung Yen City. It was honored as one of Vietnam’s top 100 specialties by the Vietnam Record Association in 2020–2021.
Ms. Phuong, who runs a bun thang luon restaurant in Hung Yen City, noted, “Crafting an ideal bowl of bun thang luon involves various ingredients and careful preparation. It’s a detailed process that requires skill and patience.”
Hung Yen’s bun thang differs from that of Hanoi through its distinctive toppings and broth. A standard serving includes rice noodles, eel, pork rolls (gio lua), fried eggs, and crispy pork belly, all immersed in a broth made from crab, peanut worms (sa sung), and dried shrimp, enhanced with a hint of shrimp paste for its aroma.
The noodles are specifically bun roi from Vien Tieu village in Tien Lu District, known for their soft texture combined with a slight chewiness.
High-quality eel is crucial for this dish, with only live and healthy eels chosen, focusing on those that are not too large but boast firm flesh.
According to Ms. Phuong, “The eels are treated with salt to remove their slime, then cleaned thoroughly. They are briefly boiled, deboned, and their meat is carefully separated to ensure uniform pieces.”
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The cleaned eel meat is marinated with turmeric, ginger, shallots, and salt to remove any fishy smell and enhance its taste and appearance. After 15–20 minutes, it is deep-fried with shallots until it reaches a crispy finish.
Preparation of other ingredients is also meticulous:
– Pork rolls are sliced into long strips, preserving their chewy texture and the fragrance of banana leaves.
– Free-range chicken eggs are fried into thin layers before being julienned.
– Pork belly is diced and fried until beautifully golden and crispy.
The broth, often considered the essence of bun thang luon, is traditionally made from field crabs and simmered with pork bones. Some places may include additions like sa sung and dried shrimp to enhance the flavor profile.
While enjoying bun thang luon, patrons typically add shrimp paste along with fresh herbs such as banana blossoms, pennywort, lettuce, cilantro, mint, and perilla to fully appreciate its rich flavors.
Visually, the dish is striking with its white noodles, golden eel, yellow egg strips, and vibrant greens coming together beautifully.
“Bun thang luon represents the culinary heritage of Pho Hien,” remarked Ms. Phuong Thao, a local resident. “The eel is particularly noteworthy, being thick and crispy outside while tender inside. In contrast to stir-fried eel noodles, it doesn’t have a chewy or overly soft texture. Every piece is meticulously prepared, ensuring no small bones or unpleasant smells remain. It appeals to all ages, and I often find myself having two bowls and still wanting more!”
