Hanoi boasts a vibrant food culture that captivates visitors eager to savor its diverse flavors. Among its culinary gems are dishes carefully passed down through generations, embodying the spirit of this historic city. VietNamNet introduces a series titled “Culinary Icons of Hanoi.”

At the 2019 U.S.-North Korea Summit, bun thang Ba Am was featured at the International Media Center alongside beloved local dishes such as Thin’s pho and Giang’s egg coffee.

It made such an impression that journalists from around the world queued to sample the visually appealing five-element bowl. “It reminded me of my mother’s stall at Dong Xuan market from many years ago,” shared Doan Van Lai, a third-generation family member.

On that occasion, Lai and 15 relatives tirelessly prepared and served nearly 3,000 bowls over two days. Though intended as a light dish, it quickly became a main attraction for international guests. Reporters captured moments, recorded videos, and interviewed the family, intrigued by this lesser-known Vietnamese delicacy.

Lai’s late mother, Dam Thi Am (1930–2023), was involved in crafting the ingredients and stock. Brochures in Vietnamese, English, and Japanese were created to narrate the dish’s history. As Lai’s daughter poignantly noted, “This is a unique opportunity to showcase bun thang on a global stage.”

The family’s culinary story began with Le Thi Tho (1890–1975), who sold bun thang at Cho Gao. Her daughter, Dam Thi Am, took over the business. Among her ten children, Lai exhibited a keen interest in cooking and became adept at creating the thin, golden egg crepes that give bun thang its distinctive appearance.

During its peak at Dong Xuan, the stall was simple, with just a table and a few seats, yet it always drew crowds. “My mother paid great attention to detail, maintaining a tidy and appealing presentation. Each ingredient was arranged purposefully—chicken, egg, gio lua, and fresh herbs. Patrons often likened the dish to a colorful flower,” Lai recounted.

A regular patron was Tran Duy Hung, the former Chairman of Hanoi’s Administrative Committee. “He would join the queue like everyone else and greet my mother with respect: ‘The usual, please,’” Lai remembered.

After 1983, the family temporarily halted public sales, preparing bun thang only at home once a year for dedicated customers. In 2002, encouraged by family, Lai opened a specialized restaurant close to Cua Nam. “It wasn’t about making money—preserving our family recipe was the priority,” he stated.

The essence of bun thang lies in its broth, which is clear, subtly sweet, and fragrant. The family’s treasured recipe combines pork bones, indigenous chicken, dried shrimp from Thanh Hoa, and shiitake mushrooms. While it was once made with capon broth, they now use East Tao hens for convenience. Notably, ginger is never added, as it would overwhelm the broth’s natural aroma.

Every bowl reflects meticulous craftsmanship—from selecting shrimp and slicing chicken to adding a dollop of premium Hang Be shrimp paste or a hint of ca cuong essence. The accompanying pickled radish must be crisp, tangy, and flavorful.

Bun thang Ba Am is priced around VND 85,000 (USD 3.33), a reasonable amount considering the high-quality ingredients. Despite numerous proposals, Lai has declined to expand the dish’s availability outside Hanoi, due to concerns over maintaining its quality.

A notable customer of the restaurant was Jensen Huang, CEO of Nvidia and one of the world’s wealthiest individuals. In 2023, he dined discreetly, enjoying two bowls and two iced coffees. “He was down-to-earth and personable, capturing photos of our kitchen,” Lai shared with pride.

Even now, elderly Hanoians come by with their grandchildren, cherishing it as a fond reminiscence. Lai’s daughter is preparing to become the fourth-generation steward of the recipe. “To advance bun thang’s legacy, we must uphold its tradition and infuse every bowl with love,” Lai asserted.