Discovering the Unique Flavors of Nem Chao from Kim Son

Hailing from Kim Son in Ninh Binh, this traditional dish, known as “nem chao” or fermented pork rolls, is not just remarkable for its name but also for its intricate preparation and distinct taste. It’s an excellent option for refreshing the palate.

Alongside notable dishes like eel salad and mountain snails, Kim Son is particularly known for its nem chao, a dish that stands out due to its rustic charm.

The preparation of nem chao involves using fresh pork trotters combined with local ingredients such as galangal, lemongrass, green mango, sesame seeds, and various aromatic leaves like those from the black locust, fig, and Indian mulberry trees.

Nguyen Quynh, owner of a renowned Kim Son restaurant, shares that the key to perfect nem chao lies in choosing fresh, medium-sized pig trotters that have tender skin and meat. Larger trotters are often excluded due to their tough texture. For added crunch, front trotters are preferred for their fibrous quality.

After selection, the trotters are cleaned and kept intact with the bone before being roasted over sticky rice straw, which adds a unique flavor to the meat.

“Gas torches or newspaper wrapping can lessen the dish’s flavor, but roasting with sticky rice straw ensures the best outcome. If straw isn’t available, sugarcane pulp or charcoal can be good substitutes,” Quynh explained.

The roasting must be closely supervised to achieve the perfect golden, crispy skin without burning the meat. After roasting, the trotters are scraped clean to reveal their appealing color, then deboned for use.

For seasoning, medium-mature galangal roots are freshly chosen for their aromatic qualities. The roots are pounded, and the juice is extracted for marinating the meat, while the remaining pulp is mixed into the nem chao for added aroma.

A special herb known as “man tuoi” (Artemisia vulgaris) is integral to the seasoning process, contributing its unique fragrance to the dish.

Depending on preference, the pork may be either steamed or pan-seared, with the latter being more favorable as it keeps the meat moist while enhancing sweetness.

During searing, a bed of herbs such as “man tuoi”, lemongrass, lemon leaves, or guava leaves is placed in the pan before the pork is added. The meat is cooked to a perfect golden brown and then left to cool before being sliced thin.

The delicate slices of pork are then combined with green mango or starfruit, along with galangal pulp, lemongrass, and a touch of salt, allowing the acidity to gently cook the meat and blend the flavors.

To finish, sesame seeds and shredded lemon leaves are added, and the mixture is gently tossed to serve as a flavorful dish ready to enjoy right away.

Nem chao is best experienced with “tuong ban,” a traditional fermented soybean sauce from northern Vietnam, which can be served thick or thin as preferred. For other options, a sweet and tangy fish sauce complements the dish well.

Thanh Nga, a visitor from Hanoi who tried nem chao in Kim Son, noted its striking appearance and refreshing flavor.

“The pinkish, golden-brown pork is visually appealing. The medley of fresh herbs adds a cooling effect, making it a fantastic treat after a long day. Despite not being a fan of pork trotters, I found this dish so delightful that I could eat it daily for a week without growing weary of it,” Nga shared. “The tender meat, crispy skin, along with the rich soybean sauce, tangy mango, and slightly bitter fig leaves create a delicious bite every time.”