Brian Jeffrey
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Without any sign, a quaint family-run grilled pork rice stall in Ho Chi Minh City quietly attracts crowds each night, serving over 50 kilograms of pork ribs consistently.
As the day concludes, the unassuming sidewalk stall managed by couple Tran Tan Phong (54) and Nguyen Ngoc Thanh (53) on Co Giang Street (District 1) buzzes with eager clients. Located right across from the Nhon Hoa temple, the stall offers beloved comfort foods—grilled pork ribs, sunny-side-up eggs, fluffy steamed egg meatloaf, salted egg meatballs, lemongrass fried chicken, tofu, caramelized pork with egg, and Chinese sausage—served in gleaming stainless steel trays.
With adept skill, Phong flips ribs over hot coals, releasing an enticing smoky scent into the air. As night unfolds, the gathering intensifies. Across the street, diners fill nearby tables, eagerly requesting more dishes, while five staff members hustle to keep pace with the demands.
Thanh happily reveals that the rice shop has origins dating back to her grandmother. Initially, it served only broken rice in the evenings, and her mother slightly expanded the offerings. However, it was Thanh who transformed the stall with a broader menu, enhancing its popularity.
Previously, the couple ran their business on Co Bac Street, where their grilled pork ribs were famous for being incredibly delicious. They sold nearly 100 kg of ribs every night. After losing their initial location, they moved to Co Giang and swiftly reestablished a loyal clientele, becoming a go-to spot for late-night dining.
“My husband and I prepare everything here,” Thanh shared. “We start early every morning to buy fresh ingredients and make our meals from scratch each day, using only what we can serve—none is ever saved for the next day.”
Typically, Thanh prepares the stir-fried options, while Phong specializes in braised, grilled, and fried dishes. He makes sure to grill the ribs at the stall each evening to maintain their warmth and freshness.
The stall isn’t just a hit with local workers; it also attracts office employees and international travelers. Many patrons opt for the signature grilled pork rib rice, celebrated for its tender juiciness and harmonious flavor that doesn’t need any dipping sauce.
Phong employs a unique family marinade, steering clear of typical ingredients like honey or milk. He ensures a consistent marinade on each rib and grills them over premium charcoal, carefully monitoring the heat and timing to prevent burning while ensuring the meat remains juicy.
“Our ribs are grilled flawlessly—neither dry nor burnt,” Phong explained. “They retain moisture and flavor, encapsulating the essence of the marinade.”
The menu prices range from VND 35,000 to 50,000 (around USD 1.40–2.00), with operations running from 4:00 p.m. until midnight. Although they don’t reach the same volume as their previous location, the couple still manages to sell 40–50 kilograms of ribs nightly, roughly 400–500 servings.
A dedicated patron mentioned that the stall’s increasing popularity stems from the superior quality of the food. “The grilled ribs are unbelievably delicious and tender,” she noted. “Besides locals and office personnel, I’ve spotted tour guides bringing foreign guests to savor this delightful local dish.”
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