Brian Jeffrey
Situated at the beginning of Alley 92, Mr. Binh is busy at a small grill, energetically fanning the flames while inviting guests to take a seat. Outdoor tables are set up for those who enjoy al fresco dining, supported by a team of 12 staff members who manage the indoor seating.
Customers often face a 30-minute wait for their meals; during weekends and in winter, this wait can stretch to over an hour. Nonetheless, a steady stream of patrons is drawn to the stall’s handmade grilled offerings, which are unique in the area.
The selection includes five main dishes: grilled chicken feet, wings, pork ribs, grilled pork stomach, and honey-butter toast.
Unlike many other grilling vendors, Mr. Binh opts against electric fans, choosing instead a manual handheld fan, deftly flipping skewers with one hand while fanning with the other.
“Manual fanning ensures that the heat is even, allowing the chicken feet to cook through perfectly. If you use a machine, the outside gets burnt, and the inside remains raw,” he explained.
At the age of 60, Mr. Binh humorously refers to his earnings as “just enough for trips to Japan every three months for shoulder surgery,” a remark on the wear and tear from his work. He attributes his grilling skills to his time in the army, where he learned to prepare grilled chicken and duck. After leaving military service, he found it challenging to secure stable employment until he decided to set up his stall selling grilled chicken feet, a dish that was quite unfamiliar in Nam Dinh during the late ’90s.
“Back in 1996-1997, there were no sellers of grilled chicken feet here. It wasn’t until the 2000s that people started appreciating the dish, but the crowds were just a fraction of what we see today,” he reminisced.
As time passed, his stall transformed into a culinary landmark. “I’ve certainly modernized the original recipe to cater to contemporary preferences,” he added.
The marinade consists of common items like ginger, seasoning powder, MSG, honey, and oyster sauce. Mr. Binh generously shares his recipe and has trained many grillers, yet none of the rival stalls have managed to thrive.
To uphold the stall’s esteemed reputation, Mr. Binh has established strict protocols:
– Every morning, three team members scour local markets to handpick fresh ingredients, ensuring each chicken foot, wing, or rib is selected personally.
– All ingredients must be utilized the same day for optimal freshness.
– The family thoroughly cleans and preps all items by hand before grilling begins at 3 p.m.
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The busiest times at the stall are from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m., particularly on weekends and colder days. “I can’t accommodate more customers at that hour, especially as I’m getting older and tend to close by 10 p.m.,” Mr. Binh noted.
The prices are reasonable, ranging from 15,000 to 180,000 VND based on the dish:
– Pork ribs: 180,000 VND per plate
– Chicken feet: 70,000 VND for 4 pieces
– Chicken wings: 80,000 VND for 2 pieces
– Pork stomach: 130,000 VND per serving
– Honey-butter toast: 15,000 VND for 2 pieces
On an average day, approximately 20 kg of ribs, 300-400 chicken feet, 40 wings, and 20 servings of pork stomach are sold, with amounts varying according to daily supply.
Beyond achieving financial stability over nearly three decades, Mr. Binh finds fulfillment in serving his loyal clientele, some of whom include families that have been coming for three generations. When asked about passing on his legacy, he lightheartedly pointed to his 30-year-old son who assists with grilling: “I’ve been so busy that I could only manage one child!”
Nguyen Thao – Trong Tung
