Brian Jeffrey
In southern Vietnam, grilled snakehead fish is an important tradition on God of Wealth Day, although its cultural significance may not be widely recognized.
A Distinctive Tradition
On the 10th day of the first lunar month, dubbed God of Wealth Day, vendors along Tan Ky-Tan Quy Street in Tan Phu District, Ho Chi Minh City, light their grills well before dawn.
At the “grilled snakehead fish street,” food vendors prepare various sizes of fish ahead of time. By morning, the scent of fish grilling fills the air as charcoal fires blaze brightly.
Rows of grilled snakehead fish are neatly arranged on tiered stands, ready for eager customers. As patrons arrive, fish are quickly reheated, packaged, and handed over.
Despite increasing their grilling capacity and adding staff, vendors often find it challenging to keep up with customer demand. The narrow street becomes crowded with people eager to buy their grilled fish.
In the local markets, smaller snakehead fish are the preferred choice for grilling. Vendors sell the fish whole, keeping the scales, fins, and tails on. The marketplaces are alive with activity, showcasing perfectly grilled fish with a tantalizing aroma.
Dung, a vendor from Tan Ky-Tan Quy Street, shared, “Many believe that offering grilled snakehead fish on God of Wealth Day brings wealth and good luck.”
“I’m not sure when the tradition began, but every year on this day, families buy grilled fish to place on their altars for Than Tai and Tho Dia.”
Dr. Duong Hoang Loc, the director of the Center for Religious and Ethical Studies at the University of Social Sciences and Humanities, explains that the custom of offering grilled snakehead fish is primarily a southern Vietnamese tradition.
The offerings may differ based on whether individuals are Vietnamese or Chinese, as well as their respective businesses. The Chinese typically present roast pork, roast duck, and sponge cakes, whereas southern Vietnamese families always include grilled snakehead fish along with a “tam sen” assortment—boiled pork, crab or shrimp, and boiled duck egg.
Dr. Loc mentioned that this tradition stems from the early Vietnamese settlers’ worship of the Earth God and Land Spirit.
“When their ancestors moved south to cultivate new territories, they paid respects to the Earth God and Tho Dia on this particular day,” he noted.
“The adoration of Than Tai was later introduced by the Chinese immigrants.”
For the early settlers, the Earth God was a pivotal figure in their everyday spiritual practices, deeply entwined with their lives.
On Earth God Worship Day, the initial southern Vietnamese offered humble foods like bananas, sticky rice, tobacco, and grilled snakehead fish.
“Grilled snakehead fish was a vital food for those reclaiming land, leading it to become a customary offering,” Loc remarked.
The fish is always presented intact, reflecting the down-to-earth customs of the early Vietnamese settlers who believed in offering food as they consumed it—plain and simple.
Moreover, the snakehead fish symbolizes resilience and adaptability. By including it in their offerings, early settlers conveyed their wishes for strength and endurance during challenging times amidst the wild animals that roamed their new environment.
