Brian Jeffrey
As the clock strikes 11 pm, District 6 in Ho Chi Minh City transitions into a serene setting with a distinct aroma permeating the air. On the corner of Hau Giang Street sits a modest eatery that serves broken rice exclusively at night, attracting a stream of customers.
The restaurant, managed by 62-year-old Mr. To Huu Nghia, has been a nocturnal culinary fixture for 37 years, earning a reputation as the go-to spot for late-night broken rice meals in the city.
Although the restaurant remains nameless, patrons fondly refer to it as “broken rice in hell,” a moniker coined during its early days.
Mr. Nghia shared, “I started selling broken rice at 3 am 37 years ago, gradually shifting to an earlier time. We now open from 10:30 pm until around 3 am, hence the playful title ‘broken rice restaurant in hell’.”
Opting for nighttime operations provided a cooler and more laid-back dining experience, catering to night-shift workers, late-night strollers, and early risers at the nearby market. Despite changes in the surroundings, the eatery’s unique flavors have retained a loyal clientele.
The menu features high-quality broken rice accompanied by an array of side dishes like grilled ribs, pork skin, sausage, and eggs, priced between 30,000 to over 100,000 VND.
Mr. Nghia takes personal charge of seasoning the dishes, ensuring each plate is perfected with his secret grilled ribs recipe, known for its tenderness and fragrance. The accompanying dipping sauce also receives high praise for its distinct taste.
As dusk falls, the grilling of ribs begins, with the family preparing other delicacies. By 10:30 pm, the eatery swings open its doors, swiftly filling with eager patrons. The place buzzes with activity throughout the night, with staff hustling to fulfill takeaway orders.
Catering to a diverse clientele, including night workers, partygoers, and families, the restaurant has become a hotspot for late-night dining. Notably, it has attracted celebrities and artists like Tran Thanh, Viet Huong, Ngo Thanh Van, and Truong Quynh Anh.
Despite the absence of a signboard, the restaurant is a magnet for celebrities and overseas Vietnamese seeking a taste of home. Ms. Tran Nhat Ha, who has been part of the restaurant for 12 years, shared stories of customers finding comfort in the familiar flavors.
Hau Giang Street may fall silent by 2 am, but Mr. Nghia’s “ghostly” broken rice shop maintains its vibrant atmosphere. Regular patrons like Mrs. Tran My, who has been visiting for two decades, find solace in revisiting favorite dishes.
Ha Nguyen – Hoang Giam
