Brian Jeffrey
Many years ago, Lan continued to operate the broken rice eatery following in the footsteps of her mother. Originally from Long Xuyen in An Giang, Lan’s mother moved to HCM City after marriage to make a living.
Broken rice is a specialty of Long Xuyen, and Lan’s mother, being a native of the area, excelled in preparing broken rice with meat pies and pork skin. During challenging times in 1963, Lan’s mother started selling com tam, which garnered popularity among diners, including celebrities.
The small alley in front of Lan’s house used to be a dirt road where her mother served com tam on bamboo frames with a few old chairs for diners. Despite the limited menu choices back then, the delicious food prepared by Lan’s mother attracted a loyal following.
There were few com tam eateries in Saigon at the time, and Lan’s prime location attracted artists, journalists, and other patrons, including famous figures such as Thanh Duoc and Phuong Lien.
Having started helping her mother at just nine years old, Lan assisted by serving com tam to customers, washing dishes, and learning the family recipes, including the preparation of fish sauce and pickles.
As the business grew over the years, Lan expanded the menu to include dishes like Vietnamese meatballs, stir-fried eggs, and barbecue ribs, evolving the Long Xuyen broken rice into Saigon broken rice.
Despite introducing new dishes, the traditional pork skin and meat pies remained the crowd favorites and are essential components of the com tam that Lan personally ensures meets her high standards.
Each day, Lan diligently prepares the ingredients, such as cutting pork skin and meat, making pickles, sausages, and meatballs, and cooking rice directly on the stove to create a flavorful rice crust.
Despite serving a clientele that includes celebrities, Lan’s eatery maintains a simple interior. In 2013, the eatery caught the attention of Martin Yan, a renowned chef famous for his show Yan Can Cook, who visited and featured Lan and her eatery on his TV program.
Despite initially being unfamiliar with Martin Yan, Lan warmly welcomed him and his team. She appreciated Yan’s humor and recalls the encounter as a memorable experience.
Lan holds great respect for Yan and all her customers, including loyal patrons who visit the eatery, some traveling from overseas upon their return to Vietnam.
