Brian Jeffrey
Ngo Tuan Anh, aged 40, is the third-generation owner of his family’s business, which started with his grandfather who sold a special dish for about two to three decades. This legacy was then passed down to his mother, Nguyen Thi Ha, who has been serving xôi xíu for almost 40 years.
At 71, Mrs. Ha still contributes by helping with sales, but most of the cooking responsibilities come from Tuan Anh, who has been active in the family business since he was a teenager.
“I’ve been assisting my mom since I was around 14 or 15 years old. Except for a short period in Saigon for other employment, I have regularly sold xôi xíu alongside her since then,” he reminisced.
In Nam Dinh, the food stall is well-known for its xôi xíu, but it also offers a range of toppings like pate, char siu pork, pork floss, sausages, and lap cheong, all served over aromatic sticky rice.
The dish is particularly recognized for its sticky rice and a unique sauce. Tuan Anh explained that the rice is sourced from Hải Hậu and is cooked in two stages to achieve the best texture.
“We keep the rice warm in the steamer throughout the day, allowing it to maintain a soft and chewy consistency that complements the savory toppings,” he shared.
The standout sauce has been a long-time favorite among diners. Created from pork bone broth and a mix of secret spices, the thick sauce is generously drizzled over the rice.
“Customers adore the sauce and often ask for extra. While making char siu is something anyone can do, our sauce is what sets our dish apart,” Tuan Anh confidently stated.
The small stall operates with a team of seven, with four staff members dedicated to sales and three focused on cooking at home.
A typical serving of xôi xíu thập cẩm, which includes a mix of toppings, costs 20,000 VND, while larger servings are priced between 30,000 and 40,000 VND.
The stall is open all day, but its peak times are in the morning and evening. On weekends, customers may wait up to 30 minutes to be served.
“While business isn’t as booming as it used to be, primarily due to an increase in food choices, we still thrive,” Tuan Anh observed.
Besides xôi xíu, the stall also serves homemade chè and steamed buns, all prepared in-house, with hundreds of buns being sold daily alongside their sticky rice dishes.
The recipes have remained consistent since Tuan Anh’s grandfather ran the stall, with all items still made from scratch. The only new additions are bakery goods such as bread and cakes, which Tuan Anh obtains from local vendors.
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“In my grandfather’s era, the rice was cooked using coal stoves, and everyone in Nam Dinh was familiar with Mr. Hong’s xôi xíu. He also prepared dried beef for nộm bò khô back then,” Tuan Anh reminisced.
Committed to preserving his family’s heritage, Tuan Anh hopes to expand the business beyond Nam Dinh.
“I had previously opened a xôi xíu stall in Hanoi, which gained popularity quickly, but due to rental issues, I had to shut it down and return to Nam Dinh. However, I plan to try again soon,” he shared.
Nguyen Thao – Trong Tung
