Goa’s forgotten orchata drink lives on in family kitchens

Back in Ribandar, Eunice moves slowly through her garden, brushing dried leaves from a kokum plant. At the mention of orchata, her wrinkled face breaks into a smile.

“I first drank orchata in my early teens; it was a family favourite,” she recalls.

It wasn’t made at her home. Her family would source bottles prepared by the Coelhos from a handful of shops in Panaji:...