Brian Jeffrey
Meet Huong: The Young Pho Shop Owner in Hanoi
Co Thanh Huong, at just 24 years old, is now managing a cherished family pho restaurant located on Nguyen Khuyen Street in Hanoi.
This establishment is famous for its delicious broth and tender beef, serving up to 500 bowls every weekend, often running out of stock by noon.
Huong’s family pho shop has a rich history, beginning with her great-grandmother from Van Cu, Nam Dinh, a place known for its pho. Upon relocating to Hanoi, she modified the traditional recipe to appeal to local tastes.
The shop originally started as a street stall on Sinh Tu Street and became popularly recognized as “Pho Sinh Tu.”
By the 2000s, Huong’s mother, known for her strong personality, gained the nickname “Hau Bo Doi” (Hau the Soldier), drawing in large crowds to the shop.
“Watching my mother tirelessly prepare pho, especially during hot summers, inspired me. Her dedication was key in supporting our family,” Huong shared fondly.
In 2021, Huong decided to leave her corporate job to assist her mother in the restaurant. What began as minor tasks evolved into her gradually managing the entire establishment, allowing her mother to step back.
Staying faithful to the family recipe, Huong’s pho differs from the traditional Nam Dinh version, featuring a clear and light broth without strong spices like star anise or cinnamon.
“Our broth gets its sweetness purely from beef bones, fresh meat, and a hint of ginger,” she explained.
To achieve this flavor, the bones are soaked for six hours, cleaned, and blanched before being slow-cooked for 24 hours, resulting in a sweet and aromatic broth.
Offering a variety of beef cuts such as rare (tái), well-done (chín), brisket (nạm), and crunchy flank (gầu giòn), Huong’s commitment to quality is evident in her preparation techniques.
“My mother insisted I learn to slice meat by hand. It took me over a month, and I still bear scars from the experience,” she recalled.
Though the shop now uses a meat slicing machine to enhance efficiency, Huong ensures she inspects each delivery to maintain high standards of freshness.
The pho is accompanied by thick, chewy noodles designed to withstand the broth’s warmth. Though thinner noodles are available, she favors the thicker ones for their compatibility with the soup.
As the customer base expanded, the previous 40-square-meter restaurant became insufficient. Recently, Huong relocated the business to a spacious, modern venue nearby with an improved kitchen for diners.
The shop operates daily from 6:10 a.m. to noon or 1 p.m., and later from 6:10 p.m. to 9 p.m., all while cherishing the family’s culinary legacy.
“I used to perceive this business as challenging—particularly for a woman. However, my passion for pho has deepened through my mother’s teachings. I am proud to continue this tradition,” she said.
Long-time patrons, like Mr. Ke from Hoan Kiem District, visit the shop attracted by its clean, sweet broth and high-quality beef.
“The broth is flavorful without being overpowering, and the beef is consistently fresh and tender. It’s a place that keeps me returning,” he remarked.
With prices between 45,000 to 70,000 VND per bowl, customers receive generous servings that signify Huong’s dedication to quality. Bestsellers like pho tái nạm (rare beef with brisket) and pho gầu giòn (crunchy flank) frequently sell out by 9 a.m.
While peak hours can lead to some wait times, most patrons agree that the experience is thoroughly rewarding.
